This Jasper Hill Farms "Best of Show" 2nd place champion of 2018's American Cheese Society was second only to Jasper Hill Farm's Harbison. Fortunately for me, I get to paint the top cheeses each year for the ACS and there were over two thousand entries at the conference in Pittsburgh.

This cheese has a story, and I figured I'd have to go long-form to do it any justice, read as your attention allows:

Wheels of Jasper hill's raw cows' milk Alpine style cheese, Alpha Tolman, were washed with brine for 6 months, producing a sticky outer rind that then was coated with finely chopped fibers of hay before being vacuum-sealed and aged another 4 months. Afterwards the wheels are unwrapped to dry and and breath some in their cellars. The resulting flavor is surprisingly good. Alpine styled cheeses are generally mild and tend to be subtle. This one is that but has savory, meaty, and fruity undertones that are also wonderfully nutty. you can taste the freshness of rich dry hay, maybe through inhaling the rind and activating your tastebuds.

Jasper Hill has been the first in America to apply some indoor European hay drying methods found in Italy. This quickly and safely dries hay for the cows, an advantage in the Northern Kingdom of Vermont, where sufficient days of sunshine are limited. By eliminating the moisture in just a few hours, the hay is more nutritious and free of risky microbes that endanger cows and milk supply.

The innovation sparked this original project produced specially on request from Chef Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, through Saxelby Cheesemongers. Saxelby is the only seller of this champion cheese; however, Jasper Hill has told me they will be doubling the production of Calderwood this year. It will remain exclusive through Saxelbys, so be smart and order some when you can!

Country of Origin: USA, Vermont

Availability: sold